Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette! Today's video is all about brogues and wingtips.
Full brogue, half brogue, quarter brogue, you name it, we'll cover it.
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First of all, what exactly is a brogue? The brogue shoe has its origins in Ireland, Scotland and it was meant to be an outdoor shoe.
Originally, the brogue shoe was basicallyan untanned piece of cowhide which had holes to drain the water from rain or when you worked.
if you want to learn more about the historyof the brogue shoe, check out our in-depth guide on our website.
Basically, the brogue has hole perforations, that means, no matter what style of shoe you have, a brogue is a brogue if it has holes.
Oftentimes, people get confused between theword “brogue”, “Oxford”, “derby”, “wingtip”, but it's actually quite simple.
An Oxford, is defined by its close lacingsystem.
A derby shoe is defined by its open lacingsystem.
To learn more about Oxfords, Derbies and differences, check out this video.
Basically, it doesn't matter what kind ofOxford or Monk or Derby you have, it will be a brogue as long as it has holes.
All the pairs of shoes I'm going to show youin this video are going to be brogues.
When you buy a brogue shoe today, these arethe hallmarks that you should look for” One, it should have heels.
It should have a toecap and a heel cap.
Most importantly, what you always need isthe hole perforations, the broguing.
Now that you know the basics, let's get alittle more specific.
One of the most well-known shoes is the so-calledfull brogue.
It's called that way because it has a veryspecific cut and layout and it has lots of hole perforations.
As you can see here, this is a spectator shoebut it is still a brogue because it has the hole perforations.
Now a full brogue, always has this kind ofwinged toe cap and it looks like a W.
It also has perforations at the back of the shoe andthe side of the shoe and sometimes you find more broguing in some shoes than others butat the end of the day, it is still called the full brogue shoe.
Sometimes the full brogue is also called thewingtip because of its winged tip, the W.
Now a variation of this shoe is the so-calledLong wingtip where the cap extends all the way to the back.
Compare it to the regular wingtip where thewing actually ends somewhere in the middle of the shoe.
The next famous kind of brogues is calledsemi brogue or half brogue.
As you can see here, a semi brogue or halfbrogue is defined by a cap toe that is straight across with what is called a medallion onthe top which is the hole punching and it's decorative.
The next kind of brogue is the so-called quarterbrogue and as you can see here, it has the cap toe and lacks the medallion, but it hasthe hole perforations along the edge.
The fourth brogue is called Ghillie brogueand it's from Scotland and used today for formal evening wear and sometimes people alsowear it outside of that but it's very special because it's a lace up shoe but it doesn'thave a tongue so it has a very unique look and it's usually something you add to yourcollection once you have all the basics covered.
Definitely not something to start out with.
Now these are the classic styles of brogueshoes but there are many more.
Lately, one model has been popular is theso-called U cap or U tip brogue because it has this U shape.
Sometimes, it's further down or further upand it's just a variation of the wingtip and it looks different but it is till consideredto be a brogue.
As I said, brogues can be Oxford, Derbies, or Monk straps.
They can be very elegant, work with lots ofoutfits so don't shy away from these somewhat more unusual styles, they're really greatand also very classic.
To learn even more about brogues, please checkout our guide and if you enjoyed this video, make sure to subscribe to our channel andsign up for our free newsletter and I'll give you the book, 15 style mistakes and how youcan avoid them.
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Now you may wonder, how do I wear brogue shoes? Basically, there are a few rules to consider.
Rule number 1: The more broguing a shoe has, the less formal it is.
For example, a wingtip full brogue in brownis less formal than a quarter brogue brown.
Makes sense right? So if you have a gray, three piece businesssuit, you're not going to wear a brown or red full brogue.
Usually you wear a black quarter brogue orsemi brogue because they're much better.
The seond rule to bear in mind is, do notwear brogue shoe with evening wear.
I know Prince William did it and it lookedterrible.
He is not a good dresser and you should alwaysstay away from broguing with evening wear.
If you have suits, especially more formalsuits, try to go with less broguing than more.
of course, there are always exceptions tothe rule.
For semi formal combinations such as blazersor sport coat outfits, I recommend you wear a full brogue shoe or you can go with a halfbrogue.
Try to go with more browns or red.
Black, maybe but only if you wear gray flannelpants with it.
For jeans and chinos, I suggest you go a stepfurther.
You can take full brogues and wing tips witha thicker leather sole.
You can also do boots with it.
You can really experiment with different colors, you can go with suede, leather textures.
Overall, just emphasize the more casual characterof your outfit.
With brogues, you should definitely avoidexotic leathers, simply because you already have the hole perforations and the more holesyou have, the more texture and structure you get.
Now you add in a crocodile leather, alligatoror ostrich, it just is too much and you cannot really see the holes any more and it's notreally elegant and stylish.
So if you have brogues, try to keep the leatheras simple as possible, box calf leathers, may be scotch grain but not more than that.
Overall, every man should have at least onebrogue shoe in his shoe closet and if you don't have one right now, please check outour videos on the first three men's shoe you should start with.