Bad Vs Quality Dress Shoes Construction | Cementing Vs Blake Stitch Vs Goodyear Welt | Shoe Design

[0:00:00]Pop quiz, gentlemen.

What’s the difference between a pair ofshoes that’s been Blake-stitched, that’s been cemented, or that’s been Goodyear-welted? Do you know the difference? Most men don’t and that’s where the problemlies because you’re out there looking at all this information online trying to decipherthrough it.

You’re seeing these terms and you don’tknow what you’re buying.

So, you could think that you’re buying apair of shoes that are of great quality and they end up, ah, not being of good quality.

Or you could be oversold something that youdon’t really need.

The purpose of today’s video, talk to youabout the three forms of shoe construction and why they matter.

[Music]So, I’m going to divide this video into three parts.

Part one, I’m going to talk about shoe terminology.

You need to understand the terms in orderto kind of make your way in and around the shoe.

Part two, we’re going to about the variousforms of construction.

And then, part three, we’re going to talkabout the advantages and disadvantages of each form of shoe construction.

Now, throughout this video you’re goingto see some amazing images of dress shoes, dress boots.

You’re going to see some dress shoes withgreat looking contrasting leathers, with blue suede, some of them are going to be much moresubtle like what we have right here.

If you’re wondering where can I purchaseany of these shoes, you’ll see the images up in this video, go to Ace Marks, guys.

I’m going to link to them down in the descriptionof this video.

I’m also going to put a discount code there.

They are the paid sponsor of this video.

And I’ve worked for Ace Marks for now overa year.

I’ve been testing out their shoes, testingout their dress boots actually.

I’ve got a pair of suede dress boots onright now that I can tell you in the last hundred and fifty days, I probably worn atleast a hundred times.

They’re that good.

All these shoes made in Italy.

And I’ll be talking about their construction, why it’s a great deal.

So, make sure go check them out, support thiscompany.

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Guys, I love their story.

They went over to Italy, they found the artisans, they’ve worked with them.

They have had some amazing success on Kickstarter.

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But, at the end of the day, I can tell youguys, great company great shoes.

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To start things off gentlemen, let’s talkabout terminology.

Terminology is important so that we can actuallybe talking about the same things.

We’re going to keep it really simple here.

I’m going to call all of these the upper.

And the upper does refer to the leather upperpart of a shoe.

What most of us are shining, what most ofus see whenever we buy a pair of shoes.

The upper is actually broken up into manyother parts, so we’ve got cap, we’ve got the vamp, we’ve got right here the tongue, we’ve got the heel, we’ve got the eyelets.

I’m going to throw all that into the upperright now because that would be the subject for another video.

But, I will say that this in general is goingto be the part of the shoe that wraps around your foot.

Next, we’ve got the insole.

The insole is going to be the inside of theshoe.

This is actually what the bottom of your foottouches.

Next, we have the outsole.

And the outsole is going to be what touchesthe ground.

After that, we have what’s known as a welt.

A welt isn’t always going to be visible.

In the case of a Blake stitch the welt isinside here, so I’m not going to be able to see, but the welt is what connects theoutsole to the upper.

Finally, we’ve got the last.

The last is going to be the form that actuallywas in here whenever they form – every company has got a different last and that is how fitis different with different brands.

Oftentimes the width can be affected, butalso the length and the overall shape of the foot.

That’s why when you buy something from anothercompany sometimes it doesn’t actually feel the same, but the last if you can imagineis a form that goes in and the shoe is built and is shaped around it.

So now, that we’ve got the terminology outof the way, let’s talk about shoe construction.

As I talked about earlier, there are threemain forms of shoe construction.

Number one, you’ve got cementing.

That’s going to be the most common out there.

Next stop, you’ve got the Blake stitch andthen, after that you’ve got the Goodyear welt.

The first type of shoe construction that we’regoing to discuss is cementing aka gluing sometimes called other things, but the point is they’reusing an adhesive to connect the outer sole with the upper.

What they do is that they put the last inhere, they put the upper in and around that and then they take the outer sole they connectit to the upper and they put in a very strong adhesive.

Many oftentimes called cement that is specificallydesigned to be able to deal with heat to be able to deal with friction and the wear andtear if you can imagine of stepping on in thousands of times.

For particular shoe types, this is actuallywhat you want.

For running shoes, for athletic shoes, forcertain types of combat boot, you want to look for actually this type of construction.

It’s going to be lighter in some cases, it’s going to be more comfortable and it definitely fits in with mass manufacturingpractices.

The second type of shoe construction I wantto talk about is the Goodyear welt.

For many people this is on the opposite endmuch higher quality than we’re going to see over with the glued together shoes.

Now, the welt actually who is Charles GoodyearJr.

because before that what you had – well, you had to actually by hand sew the upperand the insole to the outsole.

[0:05:06]What he did was he added another part, the welt.

The welt if you could imagine whenever theupper is formed in and around the last, they attach the welt.

This is going to be made from various differentmaterials, but the point is is that you had this new layer and then you would sew thaton the outside of the shoe to the actual upper and then you will connect the outer sole itwas all brought together and this allowed much faster manufacturing processes.

Oftentimes it was done by hands still, butit was also done by machine which enabled it to go quicker it enabled the re-sewingto be a lot easier.

So there were just all these advantages andit definitely made a more sturdy shoe.

The third type of shoe construction that youneed to know is the Blake stitch.

So, imagine taking the Goodyear welt actuallymoving the stitches on the inside and getting rid of the welt and instead, simply connectingthe upper with the innersole with the outer sole all together with one stitching goingthrough.

That is the Blake stitch.

It’s a more modern type of stitching process.

It does require a machine.

It’s not something that you’re going tobe able to do by hand, but what you’re able to get is a shoe that actually doesn’t haveto have a welt, but has many of the advantages of actually being stitched together.

So now, that we’ve covered the three typesof shoe construction, let’s now talk about the advantages and disadvantages of each.

First stop, cementing.

The advantages are it’s cheap, it’s fast, and this is how most shoes are manufactured.

They’re able to keep the price low.

The disadvantage is that once they come apart, you pretty much have to throw the shoes out.

You can try to apply certain glues and tryto redo it, but the problem here is that the upper and the lower of shoes made with thisare not made to go back together.

So, the problem here is that the upper couldlook beautiful, but you still have a useless shoe.

Now, let’s talk about the advantages anddisadvantages of the Goodyear welt.

The advantages are that this shoe is goingto stay together.

The stitching on the outside there is goingto stand up until basically the outsole falls apart.

And then, at that point you can actually replaceit, you can send it off to the company, send it off to a cobbler, and he can simply goin there and simply put on a new out sole and that shoe you can keep wearing.

There are people that have had shoes likethis for thirty years that they take care of and they get better and better with time.

In addition, because of the welt, you actuallyhave cork that’s been laid on the inside of the shoe they can start to form to yourfoot and can become very comfortable.

The disadvantages of the Goodyear welt, numberone, cost.

Anytime you see handwork involved in shoesand the Goodyear welt built, does oftentimes require handwork.

You’re going to see the shoe price go past$300, $400, $500, $600 because of that additional time and artisan work that goes into buildingthe shoes.

Number two, oftentimes the Goodyear welt makesa less flexible shoe.

So, if you like your shoes to have some bendto them, it may be an issue when you’re looking to buy a Goodyear welt.

Now, let’s talk about the advantages anddisadvantages of the Blake stitch.

Number one, you get all of the durable advantagesof the Goodyear welt at a lower price.

So, the manufacturing processes for the Blakestitch is oftentimes going to be more streamlined.

So, right there you’re going to see thesame durability, the ability to get these re-sewed.

You’re going to pay less than you will fora Goodyear welt.

In addition, because there is no welt, oftentimesthey’re more flexible and therefore more comfortable.

Finally, let’s look at the stitching onthe outside.

Notice there isn’t any, so that enablesthe outside and the overall look of the shoe to be more sleek.

But with all these advantages, there are somedisadvantages.

One of them being actually in the constructionhere, you’re going to be less waterproof because we don’t have a welt in there that’stying the upper altogether and adding that extra layer, you can get a little bit of seepageif you’re walking through puddles which I advice not to do with any type of shoe.

So, guys in today’s video, you learned quitea bit about shoe construction, shoe built.

And I want to hear from you guys down in thecomments what do you think, what did you learn, what did you find interesting? And don’t forget, go check out Ace Marks.

If you like any of the pictures I used inthis video, you are going to find it over at Ace Marks.

And I can tell you guys, again, the real dealI’ve been wearing their shoes now over a year and this particular pair of dress bootsI’ve got on I’ve worn a hundred times in the last hundred and fifty days.

Great company.

Use the link down in the description.

It’s got a discount code.

Great company.

Take advantage of the deal.

Guys, that’s it.

Take care.

I’ll see you in the next video.

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